Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Makeup Artistry & Sanitation: How To Practice Good Sanitation While On The Job

Makeup sanitation is the hygienic means of promoting health through prevention of human contact with infection while doing makeup.

Being a makeup artist is fun but is also a big responsibility. One careless action could cause injury or infection. Transferring disease-causing bacteria is very easy to do if you’re not taking precautions.

Depending on which sate you live in your sanitation rules and laws might be different but you should always practice good sanitation. Our goal is to do great, professional, artistic work on individuals and large groups while keeping the clients safety in mind.

What Are We Keeping Our Clients Safe From?

 Bacteria

The bad ones are called pathogenic bacteria and they can cause disease or infection in humans when they invade the body. These little guys can cause abscesses, pustules, boils, staph infections, strep throat, blood poisoning, pneumonia, tetanus, typhoid fever, tuberculosis, diphtheria, syphilis, lyme disease and this is just the start of the list.

Viruses

Viruses cause common colds and other respiratory and gastrointestinal infections. Other viruses include measles, mumps, chicken pox, smallpox, yellow fever, hepatitis, polio, influenza and HIV.

Fungi

Microscopic plant parasites that include molds, mildews and yeasts. They can product contagious diseases such as ringworm and folliculitis.

Parasites

Organisms that grow feed and shelter on or in another organism. Some examples are lice and scabies.


Cleaning

Cleaning is the process of using soap and water or detergent and water to remove all visible dirt, debris and many disease causing germs from tools and equipment. The vast majority of contaminants and pathogens can be removed from the surfaces of tools and brushes through proper cleaning. 

Disinfecting

Disinfecting destroys harmful organisms. Propertly disinfecting consists of using an EPA registered disinfectant. An EPA registered disinfectant is a product that has been registered by the Environmental Protection Agancey (EPA) to be sold and used as a disinfectant in the United States. These disinfectants are bactericidal, capable of destroying bacteria; virucidal, capable of destroying viruses: and fungicidal, capable of destroying fungi. A common disinfectant is Barbicide.

I often read online or see makeup artists using household products such as bleach, alcohol and antibacterial wipes. These products do not meet FDA standards when it comes to proper disinfection because they do not cover a wide enough range. It would be kind of like hoping for the best.

I use Barbicide Plus which is Tuberculocidal, pseudomonacidal, germicidal, fungicidal and virucidal. I know it covers the widest range and so in the field, my clients are as protected as possible.

Decontamination

Decontamination is the process of cleaning with soap and water to remove all visible dirt and debris and then disinfecting with an appropriate EPA-registered disinfectant. This method meets infection control standards in most states.

This method is what I use on a regular basis to keep my clients safe and it can be easily done if you have the proper products. Do always remember though that a tool or brush must be clean before it can be properly disinfected. Using a disinfectant without cleaning first is like using mouthwash witout brushing your teeth - it just does not work properly.

To Do or Not To Do

There are certain more common contagious diseases that you may come across when doing makeup and you need to make the decision as to whether you are going to do the service at all. Clients that have signs or symptoms of ringworm, conjunctivitis (pinkeye) or herpes simplex-1 (cold sores) present a danger to you, other clients on the job and themselves. These contagious diseases can be spread very easily to not only others but they can be spread to other uninfected parts of their face. It is your responsibility and right to refuse to do a service if you are in doubt.

Your Kit While Not At Work

While not at work, you can pretty much set your kit anywhere out of the way. Just make sure that wherever it is that it is closed. Opening your kit to grab something out of there and leaving it open leaves it vulnerable to contamination, dust and other particles in the air. 75%-90% of the dust in your home is actually dead skin cells. Ick!

Products You Need For Good Sanitation

Beauty SoClean Brush Cleanser-This is a chemical free, gentle, conditioning brush cleanser. It will quickly dissolve all makeup residu and will leave your brushes feeling soft and they’ll be dry in seconds. Just spray the brushes and use a paper towel to wipe clean. You can purchase this at Beauty SoClean. It is $20.







EPA Registered Disinfectant Wipes – This is tuberculocidal, virucidal, bactericidal and fungicidal. Regular antibacterial wipes will not kill everything. I usually get the Barbicide Wipes. You can find them at Universal, Sally’s or Amazon. 160ct for $13.75. The container will be too big for your kit so just pack them in a zip lock bag or container that’s air tight.






EPA Registered Disinfectant Spray Plus- This is Tuberculocidal, pseudomonacidal, germicidal, fungicidal and virucidal. I usually get the Barbicide Plus. You can find it at Universal, Sally’s or Amazon. 16oz for $26.75.

This will last you forever because you mix 1oz to a gallon of water. So you should get about 64 quarts. I just put it in a small spray bottle in my kit. Make sure to label it. This could be very harmful if someone used it for something other than its recommended use.




Beauty SoClean Cosmetic Sanitizer Mist – This is the only product that I’ve ever heard of that removes bacteria and germs on powder-based products: eye shadows, blush, pressed powder, bronzers, cream-based products, compact foundation, concealers, cream blush/eye shadows. It will disinfect but it will not dry out or degrade your products. You can purchase at Beauty SoClean. $20







On The Job

Always make sure to arrive with clean brushes and the products and supplies inside your kit should be clean. 

I go through my kit about twice a month and wipe everything down with a hospital grade disinfecting wipe. I also wipe out each compartment. This will also keep your items looking clean because makeup powder tends to cling to everything.

Wash Your Hands

Wash your hands with soap and water before each client. The proper cleaning of hands requires rubbing hands together and using liquid soap, warm running water for at least 30 seconds and drying with a clean towel.

During The Makeup Application

During the makeup application, you need to be aware of certain things. First, do not touch your face or hair. This can cause bacteria transfer from you to your client. I recommend putting your hair up so you’re not tempted to brush your hair out of your face.

Once you’ve touched your client with your hands, consider that anything you touch from then on needs to be cleaned and disinfected so DO NOT put it back in your kit or your brush belt/brush roll. Leave it out. Also, keeping the same thing in mind, don’t contaminate your kit. Using an antiseptic or hand sanitizer will drastically lower the number of pathogens on your hands. Keep one with you and set it out before you start each job. If you need to reach into your kit, quickly use the sanitizer and then reach into your kit. Grab anything that you might need or think you might need soon.

Sanitary Application Practices

Moisturizers or primers: Pump onto a mixing palette and then apply using a brush.

Foundations: Always use a mixing palette to mix foundation. Never use your hands. Not only could you transfer bacteria but we lose a million skin cells every 40 minutes. Those skin cells will mix in with the product and end up on your client’s skin. Pump the foundation onto your palette. Apply using a brush.

Concealers: Liquid concealers need to be put on a mixing palette and then applied using a brush. Potted concealers can be applied using a brush.

Powders: Dump some of the powder on your mixing palette. Apply using a brush.

Eye Primers: Put the product on a mixing palette and apply using a brush.

Glitters or Pigments: Put a small amount on your mixing palette and apply using a brush.

Liquid Eye Liners: These need to be put on a palette and a brush must be used to apply it.

Lash Adhesive: Put a small amount on your mixing palette. You can either carefully dip the band into the lashes or you can use a pointed Qtip to apply it directly to the lashes.

Mascara: Always use disposable mascara wands. They’re tricky to use but you’ll get the hang of it. If you find that the mascara application is not close enough to the base of the lashes, put some of the mascara on your mixing palette and then apply it using a cake eyeliner brush or mini fan brush (MUD has a perfect mini fan brush for this).

Lipstick: You can disinfect pots of lipsticks but I find it’s easier to use a spatula and then use your brush to get it off the spatula and apply it using a brush. A tube of lipstick should always be put on a palette using a spatula and then apply it using a brush.

Lip Gloss: Put product on mixing palette and apply using a brush.

Tip: Never blow on your brush or your makeup while working on the job. Saliva is bacteria filled and particles of your saliva will transfer to your brushes or makeup.

Between Client Sanitation

When you’re done working with the client, you need to clean/disinfect everything that you’ve taken out of your kit.

Brushes: Clean your brushes using your Beauty SoClean Conditioning Brush Cleanser and a paper towel. Just spray the brush cleanser on the brush and swipe the brush over a paper towel.

Next, take a Barbacide wipe and wipe the handles. Spray with Barbicide spray from about 6” away. Put the brushes back in your brush belt/brush roll.

Beauty SoClean Cosmetic Sanitizer Mist: Spray from about 6” away directly onto products you used but leave outside your kit for now. Spray eye shadow’s/eye shadow palettes, any pressed powders, cream foundations, brow pot, cream eye shadow, primer in a pot, gel eyeliner, eye shadow base in a pot, concealer in a pot, powder blush, cream blush, powdered bronzer, cream bronzer, powdered highlighter, cream highlighter and lip color in a pot. You can use this on any powder or cream cosmetic. For pencils, sharpen the pencil and then spray the end with the spray.

Barbicide Wipes: Use your Barbicide wipes to wipe down the outside of each product and put back in your kit.

Now you’re ready for your next client. Once you get this down, it’ll take you about 4-5 minutes.

Cleaning Up After a Job

If you have time after a job, clean up just as you would after each client. You’ll be able to tell whether you have time to do this by your schedule and whether people are getting ready to go.

Fast Sanitation at The End Of Each Job

Sometimes at the end of a job you may be in a rush. Usually, it doesn’t matter whether you’ve stuck to your schedule or not. When you’re done, everyone else is done and ready to go. When you’re at a wedding, the bride will be putting on her dress and everyone will want to leave for photos. No one’s going to want to hang around while you clean up.

I usually have about 3-5 brush rolls with me at each job but many people might not have that option, especially if you’re just starting out and haven’t invested much. I also carry a gallon size zip lock back in the bottom of my kit and 4-5 clear plastic zipper bags.

I use one brush roll on each client. Whatever brushes I use I put in my clear plastic zipper bags to clean when I get home. After clean-up between clients, I grab a new brush roll.

If this is not an option for you, just carry a couple gallon size zip lock bags for a super-fast, sanitary cleanup.
It’s pretty simple. These are your dirty bags. Everything that you’ve taken out of your kit is considered dirty. Put these items, including your brushes in the gallon bags. Close up your kit and you’re ready to go. The items are sealed up in these bags so they can’t contaminate your kit.

Thorough Brush Cleaning After Each Job

After each job you’ll want to give your brushes a thorough cleaning at home. Clean your brushes with warm water and a clarifying shampoo. Cleaning with a regular soap or shampoo can sometimes still leave your brushes stained a bit. Using a clarifying shampoo will get the color completely out of your brushes.
This is optional but I like to use a conditioner on my natural hair brushes. This leaves them super soft and smelling great.

When you are done washing your brushes you need to properly dry them. The best way is for them to be hanging downward. If they are sitting with brush side up, the water will settle into the brush head and can break down the glue. If they’re lying sideways, you’ve still got a bit of water sitting in the brush head.

There are brush dryers that you can buy but they’re a little spendy, especially since makeup artists would probably need more than one. They are definitely worth investing in since your brushes represent the heart of your livelihood but you can decide.

I think the neatest design of these is The Sigma Dry N’Shape $32. This is kind of cool because you could actually use it as a brush book but then you fold it the opposite way to set it up for dry time.








The alternative is the Benjabelle Brush Tree $34.95. They have brush trees that hold anywhere from 14 to 26 brushes.








Otherwise, I watched a video by Eleesa Jade quite a while ago that featured a really great DIY brush dryer.  It’s the same theory but not as cute. View the video HERE.

I really hope this blog was helpful. I know that some artists are not as concerned about sanitation but my background is in Esthetics (skin). During my schooling, we focused quite a bit on skin conditions, diseases, bacteria, viruses, fungi and other very nasty topics. We did this because we were learning to do treatments on the entire body. All of these treatments are done without using gloves except bikini waxing. Touch is the main source of infection and so our training had a strong focus on sanitation. The training I received on sanitation opened my eyes to what clean really is and how truly clean can be accomplished in just a couple steps.

The truth is, some makeup artists have very poor sanitation practices. Most artists have good sanitation practices and a few, and not enough, have great sanitation practices. It does take extra time but in the end it is worth keeping your clients and yourself safe from exposure to bacteria and viruses that can cause infection. I call this peace of mind. 

I will be doing a video on this soon that will show exactly how this is done. Hope to post it soon:)

Infection Statistics (Barbicide Plus Kills Everything on This List)

HIV – 1.1 million people infected in the U.S. (1 out of 6 are unaware they have it)
Hepatitis B – 2 billion people Infected in the U.S.
Hepatitis C – 3.9 million people infected in the U.S.
Staphylococcus Deaths – About 11,000 deaths each year in the U.S.
MRSA (A form of Staph that is resistant to penicillin) – 80,000 people infected 10,000 deaths each year in the U.S.
Herpes Simplex 1 – 1 out of 4 people in the U.S.
Mycobacterium Tuberculosis – One third of the world infected. 1.3 million deaths per year.


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Violett


Saturday, April 26, 2014

Spring Bridal Makeup Trend 2014 Colored Lids Using Dinair Airbrush

This year there are a lot of new Spring Bridal Trends and this is one of my favorites. It's using color on the lids. It is a different look and I think it will look great on any bride.

Skin Prep - Hydrating Toner & Shine Free Primer

Foundation - Natural Beige

Concealer - add a drop of Vanilla to your foundation shade

Brows - Blonde

Eye Look

City Lights - Upper lid up into the crease
Add Orchid Plum, Deep Purple and Ruby Red to the color in your cup - On upper lid staying under the crease
Add more Deep Purple - Center of lower lid
MAC Smut e/s - Line top lash line
MAC Star Violet e/s - Inner corner of lower lash line
MAC Smut - Outter corner of lower lash line meeting up to Star Violett
Mascara - NYX ZaZaZu P.S. I don't really like this.Was waiting on a shipment of Aqua Smoky Lash
Kiss Lashes - Again. Not liking these. Waiting on my shipment. Usually use Ardell Demi Wispies.

Cheeks

Peach Beige - Blush
Pink Blossom - Highlight

Lips

Bronze Rose & Sassy Pink
Moist and Dewy

Always finish off with your airbrush setting spray to seal everything in.





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Violett




How To Do A Traditional Bridal Trial

Makeup artists do a variety of different jobs such as TV/film, photo shoots, runway, sfx and bridal. Usually makeup artists will specialize in one of these. Bridal is one of the most common types of jobs and I do a lot of weddings. With each wedding I usually always do a trial. 

Always allow about an hour for a bridal trial. Make sure you have a consultation form, face chart and a contract if you haven't already gotten one signed. 

The first thing you're going to do is have the bride fill out a consultation form. This will give you details about the event, the brides desired look, her skin and her typical makeup routine.

Knowing The Brides Typical Makeup Routine

Knowing the brides typical makeup will tell you whether or not she wears a lot of makeup or light makeup. If she wears very little makeup then you will want to start out really light. Even a moderate amount of makeup can look like a lot on her if she's not used to seeing herself in full makeup.

The brides skin type and skin care routine will tell you many things. 

Skin Type

Knowing the brides skin type is going to help you determine the types of products to use. If she's dry, you're going to have to use different products then if she's oily. For example, for oily skin types use an oil free primer. 

Skin Care Routine

If your bride is missing a part in her skin care routine or not practicing good skin care at all, you may have problems applying the makeup. Another problem you will have is that this can often affect the look and wear of the makeup. This is going to help you to understand how to properly prep the canvas.

Prepping The Canvas

How the canvas is prepped, if done properly will make your job so much easier. Take the time to do this right.

Wash the face using a cotton round or an esthi wipe. Remove any eye makeup with eye makeup remover and a cotton pad and Qtip. Use a toner on a cotton round or esthi wipe to take off any dirt, oil and debris.
I always use a toner and a moisturizer prior to my makeup applications. The reason for this is a few things.

1. You will use less foundation
2. The foundation will blend in more easily
3. The clients skin is hydrated and moisturized
4. It creates a barrier between the skin and the makeup

There are a few reasons to alter the way that you prep the canvas based on skin type and skin care routine.

Skin Types and Skin Care Routine Impacts On The Canvas Prepping

I usually carry a cleanser, 2 moisturizers (1 that is very moisturizing and creamy and another that is light and oil-free),a clarifying toner(a toner with salicylic acid in it to control oil production,  a hydrating toner(something with vitamins, antioxidants and hyaluronic acid is great) and a gentle cream exfoliator(this is only for extenuating circumstances. 

Skin Types

Oily Skin - Use a clarifying toner and a moisturizer that is light and oil-free. If the skin isn't properly moisturized it will over compensate by creating more oil and oiliness can cause makeup meltdown.

Dry Skin - Use a hydrating toner and a that is creamy and very moisturizing. This will create a barrier so that the product isn't sucked up by the skin before you can blend it.

Combination Skin - Use a clarifying toner and a light oil-free moisturizer. Not moisturizing can create an over-production of oil in the t-zone and also dry out the other parts of the clients face.

Sensitive Skin - Use a hydrating toner and a very moisturizing and creamy moisturizer. You really want to create a protective barrier with these clients to keep their skin from being irritated by the cosmetics.

Skin Care Routines

Lack of exfoliation - If your client does not exfoliate, their skin could be rough and dry in areas. This can cause the foundation application to be difficult. The foundation won't blend, the skin will suck it up and it'll get to heavy and caky in areas. Use a toner and a creamy, rich moisturizer. 

Lack of moisturizing - If your client doesn't use a moisturizer, you can have the same issues listed above. Use a toner and a creamy, rich moisturizer.

Skin Conditions and Concerns

Dry, Rough Skin -  If your clients skin is rough and dry in areas the texture will really be accentuated by the foundation. This can also cause the foundation application to be difficult. The foundation won't blend, the skin will suck it up and it'll get to heavy and caky in areas. Use a hydrating toner and a creamy, rich moisturizer. If you're still having problems, use a gentle, cream exfoliator.

Mature Skin - If your client has mature skin, use an under eye cream, hydrating toner and a rich creamy moisturizer. Hydrating will plump the skin and the products will go on smoother and won't settle as much. When I apply the under eye concealer, I'll usually mix in a little under eye cream and this really helps so that the concealer doesn't settle into the lines and wrinkles.

Flakiness - Usually flakiness is dehydration but it can be really hard to work with and the foundation can make it worse. Use a hydrating toner and a rich cream use a hydrating toner and a creamy, rich moisturizer. If you're still having problems, use a gentle, cream exfoliator.

Many artists don't worry too much about these things but believe me, you will have a much easier time and you will run into difficulty with certain skin and really struggle. As you can see from my video, the bride I used just happened to have psoriasis. If I would have just started the application without properly prepping, it would have been a nightmare.

Foundation Primers

Apply a foundation primer as the last step to prepping the canvas. This will make sure the foundation stays put. Use an oil-free primer for oily, normal and combination skin. Use a regular primer for dry skin. For sensitive skin, use a green primer.

My favs:

Laura Mercier Oil-Free Foundation Primer
Laura Mercier Foundation Primer
Make Up For Ever HD Primer #0(clear)
Make Up For Ever HD Primer #1(green)

Correcting

If you have someone with a lot of redness or blemishes, it's a good idea to use a green corrector first. You can use green to correct redness, broken capillaries and acne. If the person has dark under eyes, use a  peach or orange corrector(I like the salmon color). If the under eye's are more purple use yellow. To correct dark spots on the face such as age spots and melasma, use a yellow. It seems to work best. This will make concealing easier later.

My Fav's:

Make Up For Ever Camouflage Cream Pot #17 Green
Make Up For Ever Camouflage Cream Pot #16 Yellow Green
Make Up For Ever Camouflage Cream Pot #20 Orange
Eve Pearl Salmon Concealer(under eye area)


Foundation Application

Odds are you'll have to mix your foundations to get the right shade. Hold the foundation bottle up to the skin. Choose the closest one. If it's too light add a bit of a darker foundation. If it's too dark add a drop of your lightest foundation.

Check the shade on the jawline. If it matches it should disappear when it's blended in. 

Apply a very small amount in spots all over the face. Foundation is buildable so you can always add more.  Use a damp beauty blender to blend it in. You won't get brush marks and the foundation will move around and blend easily. The moisture will thin out the foundation a little so it goes on as a lighter application.

My Fav:

Make Up For Ever HD Foundation

Eye Primer

Apply an eye primer to make sure the eye makeup stays in place. It will also make it more pigmented and it'll blend easier with less fallout.

Eye Look From Video

I did a simple eye look on the video. It's easy and will look great on everyone.

Here's what I used:

MAC Orb e/s
MAC Bronze e/s
MAC Patina e/s
MAC Carbon e/s (Liner)
MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack (Upper Waterline)
Stila Kajal Eyeliner in Topaz (Lower Waterline)
Tarte Lights, Camera, Lashes Mascara

Concealing

I wait to conceal until the top lid is done in case you get any fallout and have to clean up. 

Use a concealer palette to conceal any blemish. Use something in a pot or that is very thick for this. If it's too liquidy it won't cover and will move around.

My Fav:

Kryolan Dermacolor Mini 16 Shade Concealer Palette

Use a emollient, creamy, liquid concealer under the eye area to conceal. This area will get dried out and cakey if you use a pot. I like to use a damp beauty blender to blend it. It fits nicely under the eye area and the dampness thins it out a bit. It also covers a larger area so it's faster. If the client has fine lines or wrinkles mix in an under eye cream to make it more hydrating. Then it won't settle into fine lines and wrinkles.

My Faves:

NARS Creamy Radiant Concealer
MAC Select Moisturecover Concealer

Set

Set everything with a setting powder. Use a small, dome-shaped brush to get under the eyes to make sure the concealer is set.

My Fav:

HD Powder Make Up For Ever

Bottom Lash Line

Now that the concealer has been applied and set you can do the lower lash line.

Brows

For bridal I use a shadow to fill in the brows. It's much softer then a pencil or brow mousse.

My Faves:

MAC Brun e/s - Dark Hair
MAC Omega e/s - Blonde Hair
MAC Cork e/s - Light Brown

Bronzing

Use a bronzer that is just a couple shades darker then your clients skin to add some warmth back in. Use a large brush so it is more diffused.

My Fav:

MAC Scultping Powders

Blush

Use a large brush to apply a blush to the apples and backs of the cheek bones. This will make it look more diffused. Use a peach color on fair skin light skinned clients and something that's more deep on people with darker skin.

My Faves:

NARS Blushes
MAC Blushes

Highlight

A highlight looks great in photos and can add that soft shimmer that makes all the difference. Apply it to the tops of the cheek bones.

My Favs:

MAC Silver Dusk Powder Highlight
MAC Skinfinish

Lips

Start with a lip pencil. Line and fill in the lips. This gives the other lip products something to stick to.

My Favs:

MAC Subculture
Make Up For Ever Aqua Lip Lip Pencil #1C

Next, apply a lip stain. I like these for bridal because they last longer and don't transfer.

My Fav:

Laura Mercier Lip Stain (Shy Pink)

Gloss/Tinted Balm

Then, apply a gloss or a tinted lip balm. Both work nicely and give shine. I like the lip balms if a clients lips are a bit on the dry side.

My Fav:

MAC Mineralize Tinted Lip Balms

Setting Spray

Finish off with a setting spray to make sure the makeup lasts all day and all night.





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If you've read all this, thank you! I appreciate each one of your support! I read each comment and try to respond the best I can :)

List in the comments the types of blogs you would like to see!

xoxo


Violett